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LimitlessEndeavours — How to make a two-part mold
Published: 2013-03-29 16:26:12 +0000 UTC; Views: 35265; Favourites: 636; Downloads: 301
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You can't make your own mold/cast or don't want to waste money and material? I offer you my help! I can make molds and casts from YOUR object for the fraction of the price you would spend on materials! Send me a note!Have you seen my other tutorials?
Blank resin canine jaw sets can be purchased! More infos? See here!
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Comments: 67
Hello i'm totaly new to casting so this tutorial helps a lot! ; w;
i really like to try it my self but i want to be sure about some things.
instead of clay would home made silicon putty work? And do you maybe know how to cast a ball jointed doll?
Thanks in advance!
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I don't have any experience with home made silicone, so I unfortunately can't give you an answer to that question. In regards of the BJD casting, there are plenty of how-to's on google. I did a BJD casting once but I was inexperienced and probably chose a harder way as to how it is actually made. :I
I'm sorry, that I am no help with your questions. Good luck with your project, I hope you figure it out.
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Its oke and thank you anyway! ; w;
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Thank you very much for the tutorial, it is very useful !! Have you copied clay that has already hardened? Or is it still baked clay
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You can use both clays that have been baked or don't harden at all.
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Thanks for answering I ask you why I try to make a two-sided mold to a piece of clay without drying. The piece was contained in epoxy clay, despite the fact that it put mold release, the piece would stick and when it was deformed so that the second face did not fit
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I don't understand what you're saying. You used epoxy as a mold?
You can't do a two part silicone mold with a clay or any other object that is soft. You can use an unbaked object when doing a one part mold only.
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Thank you, that last one I needed to know. Sorry for the inconvenience ! Thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaanks !!!!!!!!!!!
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So you don't need a vacuum chamber? I think I'll have to try this on some smaller sculptures, thank you!
What type of clay would you recommend to press the sculpture into, to pour the silicone over? Regular pottery clay, or? I've always wondered that.
Thank you for this tutorial!
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Not for this type of silicone I used. There are silicones that have to be degassed, so please make sure you purchase the right type for your needs.
I recommend water based clay. Check out this youtube video, it shows really great how to do this molding technique --> www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEVi0m…
You're welcome
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That's perfect, thank you!
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Hello dear! Thank you so much for making so detailed tutorials! I definitely need to try it, even if only for paws or big heads to make them lighter, this looks more durable than any clay!
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You're welcome! Resin is by far more durable than clay. I recommend it if you have the option.
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I sent you note about commission, I m not sure if its lost somewhere
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I sent you a note back
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Thanks! I sent email
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Good luck and have fun!
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I've just bought myself some silicone moulding compound and resin to go with it. I'm pretty excited, I'll certainly be trying out some of the techniques you've done such great tutorials for!
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Have you done any molding/casting yet? 
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I haven't yet! I've been taking my sweet time sculpting. Say, have you got any tips for working in the months of the year when it's colder? I'm worried about doing the moulding and casting somewhere too enclosed, but it's too cold/wet outside to do it there. I could potentially do it in the garage but it's cold out there and it might not set correctly.
I don't really have a space in my house that I can easily set this all up and leave it and that is warm and well ventilated. Any ideas? What sort of space do you do your moulding/casting in?
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Molding and casting in colder weather can be a little tricky. The mold sets in the cold (as far as my materials go, around 70° Fahrenheit), it just takes longer. Casting in a cold winterish area is not to recommend. It will take the resin a lot longer to flash and set. Sometimes I had uncured patches that ruined my cast.
I, with the materials I have, can mold inside the house. I have a normal room to work in. Though I have no door. Weird.
You can move the molds after about an hour and put them aside somewhere else to let them cure all the way. They don't have to stand around in your way.
I can cast inside too, though my resin "smells" (it is more like a weird burning sensation in your windpipe when you hang yourself right over the mixing cups and molds). I'd suggest leaving a window partially open for air circulation, the door closed (if you have one) and after casting just opening the window all the way for 5 minutes to let fresh air in. You can/should wear a respirator mask for protection.
BUT: I can only talk about products from smooth-on. Best is to check the instructions of the products you have. They should give you information about working temperatures and general safety. I'm not sure if any of this helps you
I'm so curious what you plan on casting
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Living in a country where getting cool stuff like plasticine is hard, is art-grade modeling clay ( the one kids play with ) a useable option? I have quite much of it, and if given the chance, I'd rather not buy too much of stuff I don't need ( as the casting materials will cost a heck-ton ahahh ).. One problem it might have is tearing and losing its shape, but what I'm mostly concerned of is that will using modeling clay prevent the chemical reaction needed for the mold to form? :'D
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As long as the clay does not contain sulfur, you can use it! Silicone rubbers don't cure on contact with sulfur and stay sticky!
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aHH! Thank you so so much, this'll help me a lot with my future projects! c:
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Great tutorial! May I ask what kind of material you use for your mold specifically?
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Thank you! I use rubber silicone "Mold Star 15 Slow" from smooth-on.
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Thank you very much!
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Great tutorial, and the foil is genius!! Thank you!
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You're welcome!
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Sorry, lots of questions:
So when you say use clay on half of the object, what kind of clay is that?
Also, does this work with object that have undercuts? I.e, how flexible is the mold material? What about casting bjd parts that need to be hollow?
What about casting highly complex objects? For example, on of these [link] ?
Does casting things in resin save money/time in the long run, what with cost of resin and mold making, time of mixing and pouring and such, and the removal of seam lines?
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No problem
I use non hardening clay: Plasticine (This clay is used for animations like in "Shawn the sheep"). Make sure that the clay is sulfur free!! The mold materials don't work on contact with sulfur!
There are different mold materials for the right job. Mine has 88 pli tear strength and the elongation at break is at 440% - Which is very flexible. I casted successfully BJD's on commission - with the right technique it is also possible to cast the pieces hollow. The molds have a lifetime of course, but usable up to 100 times if you treat them good!
Your guardians are easy to cast since they have no scales or very fine details where air bubbles could be trapped. A one- ore two-part mold works fine!
Casting saves you a lot of time - Instead of sculpting the same object a whole day long, you cast it in 10 - 30 minutes. Seam lines can be removed with an x-acto knife, sandpaper or a dremel. This takes just a few minutes, depending how good you secured the mold from leaking (two-part mold). The time for mixing and pouring the mold for one piece shouldn't take longer than 30 minutes to an hour depending on the size of you work. The cure times variate between minutes and hours - i always choose a mold material with longer cure time (4 - 6 hours) so if something should happen i have enough time to fix it before the sticky stuff gets hard. 
I hope i didn't forget something, if you have more questions let me know!
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Sweet! I will have to try this some time! And thank you for your help!
What brands of mold stuff and resin do you recomend?
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You're welcome! I use molds from "smooth-on" and the resin from "TAP Plastics". I would recommend to use the "Mann Ease Release 200" as well.
Good luck for your first try in casting! Let me know if you need help
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Thank you! I will! Not sure when I will get around to it, though..
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Don't rush - that has time!
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Wow! Tinfoil! I would've never thought of that *3* I use the old legos- but this should save quite a bit!
Is there a specific technique for getting the seam lines to line up correctly? (Like smoothing the clay out on the side) I might just be impatient XD
Also whats the non-stick side of tinfoil? I didn't know there were two sides x_X
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There is no specific technique, just make sure when you wrap the foil around it, that there are no gaps. When you flip the mold over and make the second pour, make sure to use your release agent not just on the top, but also on the sides of the first mold. Wrap a rubber band around the foil (at the top of the first mold) to make sure there are no gaps. As you can see in my tutorial, i used no rubber band and no clay to fill in the gaps on the tip of the tongue - i needed to cut my mold free, so watch out when you are using this technique.
I use "Reynolds Wrap Heavy Duty non-stick" where the dull side is the non-stick side. The shiny side is not to recommend.. You would need to cut the foil out of your mold!
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does this help lessen waste? I will be making large molds and would like to learn anything that'll help lessen waste of mold material.
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It depends on the object you want to copy, so i can't really answer your question. But check out this site [link] - They show many ways to mold and cast, you might find there your perfect solution! Good luck!
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Wonderful tutorial, I recently got my first batch of smooth on materials and have been brain storming how to build up the mold box (previously used hand puttys) it's good to know foil is safe to use and I don't need to compile a huge wasteful plexiglass custom made box! ^_^
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Yayy! My new smooth-on should come this week
That's exactly the reason why i use foil or clay: I hate the mess with plexiglass.. Just make sure that you use the NON-STICK side!!!! Very, very important!! And make sure you have no gaps between the first pour mold and foil when you pour the second mold part over it! Use enough clay at the sides (in emergency) to cut you mold in shape, in chase the second pour got into a gap and you can't find the seam! I hope i could explain that good enough - hard time with currently one coffee at this time
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No you've helped me immensely! 
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Well, wasting materials is one part of the learning progress. Let me see what you've done, I am so curious!
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