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EruwaedhielElleth — DIY duotone eyeshadow tutorial

Published: 2014-03-17 00:05:06 +0000 UTC; Views: 17973; Favourites: 97; Downloads: 92
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Description This tutorial is meant show teach you how to create your own duochrome (or duotone, I've heard it both ways)
eyeshadows. Duochrome colors have a two tone effect, they will have two sheens of color, depending on the
light.  The effect is usually subtle, the base color will be the most prominent, while the second color will appear
as a shimmer or frost over it when the light hits it correctly.

You can see swatches of eyeshadows made with this technique here: fav.me/d7ahfs9

And a video here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRig74…

I was attempting to catch the colors on video, since they are very difficult to get pictures of, but my camera
still didn't pick up on it very well even on video.

To see my tutorial on making your own customized lipstick shades, go here: fav.me/d79rey3


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Here's how it works: You start with a base color. A mica or oxide that's fairly low sheen and has good coverage. (not too sheer).

You add an "interference" mica. (Called hilites on Tkb trading's website) These are ghostly colors that appear
white in the bag or jar, but bloom with frosty shimmery hues when you swipe it across your skin. They don't mix well with
each other,  but added to a solid colored mica, they produce a two-toned effect. This is what adds the color shift you're looking for in your eyeshadow.

If desired, you can add a third color to your shadows, larger particle sized interference micas (Called sparks
at TKB trading, which by the way, I have no affiliation with, I just like their products. ) These are very
lightweight sparkles that will float on top of your other two colors, flashing when the light hits them.


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Some things to remember when formulating and applying a color:
 

. Keep in mind that both the interference colors and the additives will lighten the finished color of your eyeshadow.
Adding Sparks tends to make your colors more sheer, shadows with a large volume of sparks in them need a foiling
agent or glitter glue of some type to show up strongly and stay on your eyes.

. To gain a true color change (like fyrinnae's arcane magic line) rather than a 2 color shimmer, one of your   
  micas needs to have color changing properties already. This effect can't be achieved with simply a base
 color and an interference mica. TKB's moondusts and travel collection of micas both have definite color shifts,
but they don't show as well on the skin as they do in nail polish, I haven't  experimented with those as much.
Theremay be other products out there with stronger shifting properties, but I don't know what they are or where
 to get them.

I have made at least two of the moondusts work, Cresent Crimson (pink/orange shift) and Aisha Gold. (gold/green/blue shift)
I added 1 part moondust to 1/2 part flat black mica, and applied it over Fyrinnae's pixie epoxy. The color change came out well,
and I saw flashes of each color depending on the light I was currently standing in. It made gorgeous, complex, sparkling
colors, truly amazing. I'll have to try the others as soon as I can buy a few more.

. Depending on the strength and transparency of the colors used, you may have to play with the proportions a
bit to get the right effect. If you add too much base color, it can easily overwhelm the interference, and you
won't see the shift.

.some colors need grinding, especially those made with oxides. A coffee grinder works well for this. it
should be done before adding sparks.


.You can match the base color and the interference color for an eyeshadow with a frosty sheen rather than one that
shifts color.

. The color shift is subtle, and appears best when the shadow is patted on with your fingertips rather than a    
 brush. As with all loose pigments, there will be some fallout when you apply it, and it can get messy if you 
 aren't careful.

. These colors are strongest when foiled, (applied wet with water or a foiling agent) and usually look their 
 best in artificial light.

. You can use the mixed mica without adding the other ingredients, (they help with adhesion and prevent    
 fallout) but you must use a good primer. Even when mixed with the eyeshadow base, I suggest using a primer.
It doesn't have to be expensive, I use E.L.F primer, and E.L.F lock n seal (for foiling and holding eyeshadows
with a lot of sparkle, you can even create your own eyeliner out of shadows with it.) These products are $1.00 to $3.00, not badly priced at all, and they work very well. (Even if you don't use loose pigments, I highly recommend  both of these products. They work
every bit as well as the more expensive brands, and cost next to nothing.)

. White and black bases show the different colors of the shift most dramatically, you can encourage it to show
in your look by strategically applying a cream pencil to your eyelids before putting on your eyeshadow. NYX
Jumbo   eye pencils in Milk and Black Bean are good for this, or L.A Colors jumbo eye pencils (cheaper, but a
little less sticky) in Seashells and Sunglasses. A white base will usually show the main color of your eyeshadow,
and black allows the interference shift to shine through.

 
. Mica dust goes airborne very easily, and is not something you want to breathe in. You can wear a mask
while working to prevent this.
 
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You will need:

. 1 bag solid mica or an oxide, (this will serve as your base color, I use True Blue mica in this tutorial)

. tkb's matte eyeshadow base, (or their press base, if you plan to press your shadow)

. c-smax (carnauba coated serecite mica)

. 1 bag interference mica color (this will be the second more subtle tone in your eyeshadow, I used hilite green)

. 1 bag sparks mica (these are similar to interference colors, but are very glittery due to their a larger
particle size. These have a kind of "floating' effect on top of your other colors, rather than blending in.)
these are optional, if you don't like sparkle, you can use less of them, or none at all.

. silica microspeheres (optional, will improve the texture of your shadow)

. small measuring scoops

. jar to mix in

. sifter ( I used a tea strainer)

. small spatula or spoon, something to stir with

. container to hold finished eyeshadow, or pressing kit and pans


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Here is the recipe I'm using for this tutorial:
 
recipe: mermaid's tail

Color:

1 part true blue
2 parts hilite green
1 part gold sparks 

Additives

1 part c-smax
1 part base
1/2 part silica microspheres

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Step 1. Add 1 part base mica to 2 parts interference mica to your mixing jar. If desired add one or two parts sparks.

Step 2. Mix well with your spoon or spatula, or put the lid on and shake the jar.You must blend them very
thoroughly, or you'll have ugly streaks in your eyeshadow. You can see the little dots of unmixed color
in picture three. Sift your micas with a small sifter or tea strainer, at least twice. transfer this mix to the
storage jar for now. If you have an excellent primer, and you don't mind some fallout throughout the day, you can stop here.

Step 3. Add 1 part Tkb's matte texture base and 1 part c-smax to the mixing jar, add 1/2 part silica microspheres if dsired and shake together. Add your color mix, blend well, and sift back into your storage jar.

Step 4. If you prefer a pressed eyeshadow, you can press it at this point. If not, you're done! Your eyeshadow
is ready to use! Be sure to use a good primer, and pat or swipe on with your fingertips rather than a brush for best effect,
use foiled for the strongest contrast of colors.   

This can be scaled up or down, just use a different size scoop and keep the same proportions.


TIPS:


. A fan brush works well to sweep up spilled powder, and prevent wastage. alternately, if you work on a piece of
  plastic, all you have to do is fold it in half and funnel the spilled powder back into the jar

. Ajax liquid dish soap works well for cleanup. You need to clean immedietly after working, since colored micas
  can stain your clothes and surfaces if you aren't careful.

.  For colors that are difficult to mix, Putting the micas in a baggie and smooshing it with your fingers works well
  to ensure even distribution. Then cut the tip off the bag, and empty it into your jar. Be sure to sift the mix
  afterwards to eliminate clumps.


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Resources:

here is a link to a good tutorial for those who want to press their eyeshadows, pressing may alter the color and
texture of the shadow, so experimentation may be necessary.

www.portraitofmai.com/p/pressi…
 
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List of places to get micas and other supplies:

TKB Trading: www.tkbtrading.com/

I get all my supplies here. There's no minimum order, they are very affordable and generous in the amount of
product you get for your money. Some of their micas already have a slight color shift, remember to read the
descriptions.

 
Other suppliers of loose micas

Conservatorie: theconservatorie.com/Mica-c-1_…

Coastal Scents: www.coastalscents.com/

I have not personally ordered from either of these  websites.

One other alternative is Jacquard pearl-ex craft colors, these products are not meant for cosmetics, though I haven't been able to discern a difference between them and the cosmetic micas I own. I have personally used them without any ill efects, but I can't promise they're absolutely safe. Use at your own discretion, and definitely don't use them in products intended for other people.
 

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If you order from TKB, here are some products I suggest as a good starter kit for duochrome eyeshadows. Buy the
sample sizes, they will be more than enough for personal use for a long while.

. TKB matte texture base

. c -smax (carnauba wax coated sericite mica)

. black mica

. white mica

. pop mica collection (these are your basic bright colors, you need the black and white mica to adjust the tone)

. basic interference (hilites) mica collection

. sparks collection (you get less of these in a smaple baggie, but they should be used  in your mixes, so they
will still last you some time.)

. set of 5 small scoops

. empty 3 or 5 gram jars

. small sifter (if you don't have one you can use already)

If you want to press your eyeshadows, you'll also want

these:  

. Press kit (whichever size you desire, you can start with small 15mm pans, and try larger ones after you have
a collection of recipes that you like and know press well)

 . pressing base (in place of the matte texture base)

. pressing liquid (you only need one or two drops of this for a small pan, more will not dry properly)


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 Please note that this tutorial is for personal use only, I certainly don't know enough about it to create cosmetics for commercial purposes.
 
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Comments: 5

agoldenrose1 [2021-05-20 20:45:13 +0000 UTC]

👍: 0 ⏩: 0

znaika123 [2014-12-15 12:35:16 +0000 UTC]

a huge respect and a big thanks from Ukraine. Thank you for a detailed step-by-step tutorial. 

👍: 0 ⏩: 1

EruwaedhielElleth In reply to znaika123 [2014-12-15 15:05:42 +0000 UTC]

I'm glad you found it useful!

👍: 0 ⏩: 0

petiteUlis [2014-03-17 11:13:27 +0000 UTC]

Wow, you're being very thorough in your tutorial ! Thanks for sharing !

👍: 0 ⏩: 1

EruwaedhielElleth In reply to petiteUlis [2014-03-17 17:49:31 +0000 UTC]

You're quite welcome!

👍: 0 ⏩: 0