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Dragonsmithy — Blacksmith knife

Published: 2011-09-17 04:20:38 +0000 UTC; Views: 3051; Favourites: 41; Downloads: 35
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Description This is the last project I was able to finish forging this summer at Moreston Village. A blacksmith knife is basically a one-piece knife with a forged handle. A rail spike knife might qualify, but this is more along the lines of the typical style. This knife is 6" overall with 3" of razor sharp edge. It's forged from spring steel and has been heat treated in such a way that the edge can barely be scratched with a file, but the back of the blade and the handle are springy enough to resist breakage. The tip of the blade is clipped the tiniest bit to prevent damage. The finish isn't perfect, but that's usually the case with this style. Even so, it's shinier than most - bonus points if you can spot my nose. Prices for these seem to be all over the board, but $35 seems to be relatively typical. This knife is not typical; I've put more work into sharpening and finish than one usually would for this style, but not enough to warrant the high end $100 price tag, so I'll go with the $35. I can make a sheath for another $15-$20, which is well worth it because this is a very worthy little utility knife. I really hate the hard sell, but I think it's worth pointing out that some brand-name garbage knives of a similar size cost twice that much or more, so even if you're not interested in this particular piece be sure to check out an artisan cutler's work before you buy.

Rather than copying and pasting a thank-you to everyone who's favourited this knife, which seems sort of plastic and insincere*, I'll just say it here: Thank you!

*: The thank-you, I mean, not the knife. It's steel.
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Comments: 34

K2-REAPER [2017-01-18 22:59:34 +0000 UTC]

JUNKERS

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godofimagination [2012-10-03 01:01:19 +0000 UTC]

How did you harden the edge and make the back springy?

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Dragonsmithy In reply to godofimagination [2012-10-03 03:12:41 +0000 UTC]

You know, I wish I'd recorded that, because now I completely forget. Most likely I heated a block of steel and laid the spine of the knife along it, quenching when the edge turned gold. One popular method is to use 'clay' to cover areas you don't want hardened before heat treating. Refractory cement from the hardware store works great, as I understand it. In Nepal, they heat heavy knives above the transition point then pour water along the edge so that it cools quickly while the spine retains its heat long enough to stay soft.

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godofimagination In reply to Dragonsmithy [2012-10-03 03:51:37 +0000 UTC]

Like a hamon.

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Dragonsmithy In reply to godofimagination [2012-10-03 13:25:08 +0000 UTC]

Exactly, though bringing the hamon out requires polishing and chemical etching.

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godofimagination In reply to Dragonsmithy [2012-10-04 01:15:44 +0000 UTC]

Have you ever heat treated via blowtorch?

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Dragonsmithy In reply to godofimagination [2012-10-04 05:02:01 +0000 UTC]

I have. It's very difficult to get an even heat, but you can do it to a small blade in a pinch. I wouldn't try anything longer than 3", and that might be pushing it. Better to make a charcoal or propane micro forge.

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godofimagination In reply to Dragonsmithy [2012-10-05 01:51:27 +0000 UTC]

Really? The guy I heard about it from said it's most commonly done with swords.

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Dragonsmithy In reply to godofimagination [2012-10-05 04:49:22 +0000 UTC]

Uh... that sounds really, really sketchy to me. Even heating is key to a good heat treatment, and it's impossible to accomplish that with a torch if the blade is more than a very few inches log. It's possible that he was referring to a different process, like case hardening using a nitriding compound.

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godofimagination In reply to Dragonsmithy [2012-10-05 05:38:16 +0000 UTC]

He never meant to heat it evenly. He said he would leave the torch in one spot until the edges turned straw yellow and continue. That way, the edges would be hard and the middle would be springy. The guy, Kevin Dockery (not the athlete) was apparently legit and said he had been making swords for years. I went to another seminar the next day and another apparently legit guy, Michael Z. Williamson, mentioned the same method.

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Dragonsmithy In reply to godofimagination [2012-10-05 12:58:52 +0000 UTC]

Drawing the temper that way (as opposed to hardening) is possible, but risky and difficult with inconsistent results even on a short blade. Using a technique which creates uneven hardness on a sword, which is subjected to extreme shock and stress, seems crazy to me (I also question tempering a sword edge to straw colour, which is far too brittle for that application). I do note that the experts you mention are both jingoistic military authors first and foremost - not that this invalidates their expertise, but it does raise some red flags for me. Certainly I'd like to know why they wouldn't just use composite stock or selective hardening, as in traditional Japanese blades. My suggestion is that you ask some of the experienced cutlers on this site what they think about the technique. Hey, maybe I'm wrong about this, but if so then I am wrong with confidence.

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godofimagination In reply to Dragonsmithy [2012-10-06 01:20:03 +0000 UTC]

I'll have to go with you on this one. I couldn't find anything on google or youtube, and the sword that the guy made himself wasn't even done that way.

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xXKurorXx [2012-04-12 04:45:41 +0000 UTC]

Hello, do you forge steel?

Im interested in make a forge and i need your help, can you help me in teach me to forge?

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Dragonsmithy In reply to xXKurorXx [2012-04-29 02:27:18 +0000 UTC]

Hi, sorry for the long delay - I've been disconnected for about 3 weeks. To answer your questions: Yes I do forge steel, and no I'm afraid that I can't teach you. To begin with, I'm not qualified for that, and am just learning myself. This is also something that you really need to learn in person, though there are many video tutorials and demonstrations on Youtube that may help.

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YoBorg [2012-03-15 12:55:50 +0000 UTC]

I make a Leather Sheath for the blacksmith knife.

[link]

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Dragonsmithy In reply to YoBorg [2012-03-15 16:14:49 +0000 UTC]

I saw that when I logged in; great work!

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YoBorg In reply to Dragonsmithy [2012-03-15 18:03:13 +0000 UTC]

^_^ The Better for the Knife.
Thanks for the favs!

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Fezdani [2011-10-30 21:50:03 +0000 UTC]

Gorgeous, truly medieval fairs could use your work.

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Dragonsmithy In reply to Fezdani [2011-10-31 03:43:23 +0000 UTC]

When I've got the stock I might just see about that.

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Fezdani In reply to Dragonsmithy [2011-10-31 20:44:13 +0000 UTC]

Oh how fun that would be!

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YoBorg [2011-10-07 08:32:35 +0000 UTC]

It has arrived. All's ok.

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Dragonsmithy In reply to YoBorg [2011-10-07 12:46:54 +0000 UTC]

Good, I'm glad to hear it; yesterday I was thinking that I should get in touch with you about that in about a week.

I understand the basics of knife making but I'm till very much a beginner, so please let me know if you think there are any major areas for improvement!

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Metal-Bender [2011-09-18 18:34:38 +0000 UTC]

Nice work!

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Dragonsmithy In reply to Metal-Bender [2011-09-19 04:14:40 +0000 UTC]

Thanks!

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Metal-Bender In reply to Dragonsmithy [2011-09-20 01:08:30 +0000 UTC]

You're welcome Michael!

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GreatShinigami [2011-09-17 09:43:49 +0000 UTC]

I learned a lot reading your explanation. I saw often knifes like that at medieval markets, without knowing exactly what there was!^^

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Dragonsmithy In reply to GreatShinigami [2011-09-17 15:33:02 +0000 UTC]

I often have a hard time finishing up knives because the handles are a bit intimidating. Blacksmith knives are much more convenient for a blacksmith to finish since it's the same skill set for the handle as for the blade.

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YoBorg [2011-09-17 09:25:29 +0000 UTC]

Nice work. Do you sell it?

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Dragonsmithy In reply to YoBorg [2011-09-17 15:28:45 +0000 UTC]

Thank you. Yes, I would like to sell it. The price is €26, or €37 if you would also like a sheath made for it.

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YoBorg In reply to Dragonsmithy [2011-09-17 20:57:17 +0000 UTC]

I like it. How much could be the P&P to send it to Spain?

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Dragonsmithy In reply to YoBorg [2011-09-17 22:14:54 +0000 UTC]

I've checked the rates via Canada Post, and I can't quite believe it - it would cost more than the knife itself ($36CAD or €27 for the most basic uninsured and untracked service). That is nothing short of piracy. I'll try to confirm that on Monday, but for now I'll need some further address information from you in order to check the rates with other parcel services

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YoBorg In reply to Dragonsmithy [2011-09-19 10:20:01 +0000 UTC]

I live in The Balearic Island in Spain.
I have a P.O. Box.

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TheRint [2011-09-17 08:51:09 +0000 UTC]

Miraculous work as ever

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Dragonsmithy In reply to TheRint [2011-09-17 15:21:06 +0000 UTC]

I'm humbled - thank you.

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