Comments: 24
Fail2Evolve In reply to btcywtch [2010-07-25 19:08:25 +0000 UTC]
The KidRobot forums, prettymuch exclusively.
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garyjsmith [2018-04-09 16:03:12 +0000 UTC]
Is that sculpted around wax?
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daveizoid [2010-07-27 20:54:20 +0000 UTC]
NICE!!!
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meagghanne [2010-07-27 01:15:43 +0000 UTC]
Hey, love your sculpey work!
I have a lot of fun doing sculpey on munnies, but I have a lot of trouble getting this much detail as smooth as you did.
Would you mind very briefly going over how you smooth out your sculpey?
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Fail2Evolve In reply to meagghanne [2010-07-27 04:49:08 +0000 UTC]
sure! Here's the basic process I use for the whole thing. (smoothing is my primary focus in all steps.)
1.) First step is gloves. whether you use sculpey or aves epoxie or magicsculpt, you need to wear gloves to avoid certain health risks. if latex bothers you, try nitrile and/or powder-free gloves. This will help avoid those annoying fingerprints, and you're sure to have better grip. Plus, if you use your bare hands, lots of dirt & oil from your hands will get in the clay.
2.) Use your gloved fingers to smooth the clay onto the vinyl, layer by layer, trying to make a very gradual gradient of the clay. Try to get your hands on a bamboo stylus or two, and you can use that to cut of excess clay as well as pressing it harder into the vinyl. You can make tons of tools, or you can get full sets pretty inexpensively at art chain stores. Try wire, razor blades, toothpicks, nails, bobby pins, dentist's tools (a big + to dentist tools)
3.) Using a sable or really really nice synthetic brush dipped in turpenoid, go over the entire sculpt in the directions that it "moves" (even if it's stationary, just move in the directions of the clay you're shaping. Don't leave a ton of turpenoid on the sculpt.
4.) Bake
5.) Go over the piece in quick, light strokes with about a 200 grit sandpaper, paying special attention to the "seams" (where the clay meets vinyl). This is also a good time to smooth out the rest of the sculpt.
6.) Do the same as #5, but with 300 grit. Remember the Seams!
7.) Do the same as #5 again, but with 400 grit wet/ dry sandpaper until the whole piece is as smooth as plastic. The seams should be gone by now.
8.) Prime & Paint as desired!
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meagghanne In reply to Fail2Evolve [2010-08-07 18:53:08 +0000 UTC]
Wow that was really in depth! Thank you that is a huge help I cant wait to try those things.
Where do you get the Dunnys you work with??
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Fail2Evolve In reply to meagghanne [2010-08-08 02:02:50 +0000 UTC]
i get them from Bullmoose (bullmoose.com) because they're cheaper there than anywhere else.
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greengorilla3000 [2010-07-25 18:49:44 +0000 UTC]
Wow that is awesome...cant wait to see it finished
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Fail2Evolve In reply to greengorilla3000 [2010-07-25 19:09:31 +0000 UTC]
Thanks! Honestly, i'm looking forward to the finished product too, this feels like one of my best works so far (and it's very very hard for me to acknowledge quality in my own work)
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future-parker [2010-07-25 09:13:41 +0000 UTC]
That freaking awesome how much does that cost.
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future-parker In reply to Fail2Evolve [2010-07-26 10:21:21 +0000 UTC]
That's not that bad considering what you would pay for some of the kidrobot toys
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DaveGrimm [2010-07-25 06:35:31 +0000 UTC]
looking good....
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Tyndras [2010-07-25 05:45:37 +0000 UTC]
Wonderful!
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Fail2Evolve In reply to Italian-Goatee [2010-07-24 21:35:52 +0000 UTC]
Thanky! Got so much crosshatching to do on this beast still, and then i have to put all of the threads in....wooooo!
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TsunayoshiSawadajap [2010-07-24 14:54:14 +0000 UTC]
from nightmare before christmas like the like the video games
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