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taika-kim — Spiraling candlestick mk.2
Published: 2008-01-31 20:54:01 +0000 UTC; Views: 1229; Favourites: 21; Downloads: 22
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The latest in my goes at a nice, sellable product that is also enjoyable to make.I can now make one in a quite reasonable time, so that means a reasonable price, too
The cup & plate are riveted straight to the stem. So no welding, something I'm always happy to avoid.
Oh? 50€
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Comments: 20
Thanks, they're all freeform bent, takes from 1,5 to 2hrs to make one from beginning to end, even if I serial produce the individual components. That's quite slow so they end up expensive.
As soon as I have time, I'll try to make a jig for them. And also think of a good fast way to make beautiful cups that have a slight bell curve on the sides in addition to the usual outwards bend on the rim.
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When I want to make multiples of something (like that cup or bell shape),I make a male and female die to use on my 20 ton press and COLD FORM the pieces.
Like on this series of candelabra:
[link]
[link]
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How would you press a 3D spiral like that? I can't imagine the dies in my head...
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For a 3D shape like that you make a JIG not a die.
It's too complicated a shape to press,but you can make a form which you WRAP the hot steel around (after you've put the lovely twists in it and tapered both ends)which gives you your final shape.
This is where allot of visualization comes in,to see in your minds eye the form that your steel gets wrapped around to make that final shape.
Sometimes in reproducing complex 3D shapes,it becomes necessary to make several jigs that form different sections. Remember when designing your jig ,that you have to get the piece off it when it cools.
For this reason I make some jigs that bolt together so they can be dismantled when I want to remove the forged work.Is this making any sense to you?
Thus for a piece like my Art Nouveau Prototype Lamp:
[link]
I made a jig which looks somewhat similar in that it too is a spiral.Your jig doesn't have to be made out of super strong stock either since you will always be wrapping your pieces when they are red hot and fairly flexible.
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Yeah I've done some simple jigs for flat curves, but this is more complex and I'd need at least half a day or so to get it straight I guess... And just haven't had that time yet :/
Yes I get you very well, I've been also thinking of that part about being able to remove the piece too...
Also I need to get more familiar with the lathe (been only turning wood until now), so I can create the pieces for the bell/cup die & things like that more quick...
But everything is kind of stalling in the school right now, I'm not very happy with the situation. We are just not doing enough work, but wasting time on lectures of art history(which are fine if you are starting at zero level I guess, but for me feel like losing valuable time at the workshop...) & so on...
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That is SOOO strange,
I had the exact same experience when I had to take some Art history classes to complete my second degree (in ARt). What I did was to engage the teacher in dialogues about the techniques the masters used,which she in fact knew very little about. It made the time pass more interestingly and she became a good friend and I got A's...
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I'm sorry ,
I meant tapered ONE end.
I think you could do it with TWO jigs.
First you find out how long your material needs to be. Then forge all your pieces tapered and put the twist in them keeping the overall piece STRAIGHT at this point. Put that nice little tail accent in all your rods by hand. Now you have a stack of rods all cut to the exact length,forged with the requisite twists ,and ready for the heat to form around your jig.
I would make one jig to form that "S" shape that forms the base of the piece,than a separate jig to for that vertical spiral that goes up to the cup.
There will always be some final "dialing in"of the piece ,to make it sit flat ,to have the vertical spiral going straight up etc. These aspects will always have to be done by hand,but the major shapes can be accomplished by the two jigs...
I wish I had a picture of the jig I used for my piece but I don't. It's hard to explain this stuff with words. Are you understanding this concept?
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Ah, you were talking about the bell, right
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I'm just in love with this one. There is so much atmosphere in it, like its taken from an old legend, a castle in a deep forest full of ancient stories... i don't know, it just look special.
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Thanks, I like the design very much too!
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On kyllä kehumisen arvoinen työ,Pidän tästä yksinkertaisesti kaunis 
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Hei, noita on myynnissa
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This is a very nice and curious design. Beautiful work
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thanks a lot
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ja niin joo olennainen, niittauksen mä tein sillä perus teräväkärkisellä merkkaustaltalla ja ite tehyllä pyöreä
noissa piikkiversioissa piikin juuressa on levennys, minkä ympäriltä mä oon niitannu pyöreä
phöö. kas tässä 4 viikon kokeilu tiivistettynä
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Really nice. Have to try that riveting out myself as well though our teachers have been quite sceptic when I've suggested it
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It works fine, I see no potential problems with it... Probably slightly slower than welding, but looks better and feels better to do.
Toi varren pää on ensin kevyesti olastettu ja sit siitä viilattu about 7mm niitti päähän. Toi kuppi on tehty 20mm putkesta mikä on ensin levitetty sopivaa vastakappaletta vasten kynttilälle sopivaksi, ja sit putki on kavennettu tylppää v-päätä vasten. Keskireiästä saa pyöreän helpoiten kun pitää tulevan niitin kokoista ohutta tankoa putken sisällä takoessa...
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Exellent.Very nice twist on that tapered quadrangular stock-often a challenge to get right.If i've seen it at a fair or someplace,i'd buy it.
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